Rick Owens presented his Spring/Summer 2024 women's collection at Palais de Tokyo in Paris, returning to his regular venue after a brief excursion to Venice. The collection, titled Lido, explored what Owens called "joy as a moral obligation" through predominantly black garments that balanced severity with movement.

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The foundation pieces were high-waisted trousers in wool, silk, or cotton faille that cinched at the waist and flared dramatically to drag along the floor. These were paired with leather and silk t-shirts that wrapped tightly around the torso, stretching and twisting to create elongated silhouettes. The wrapping technique turned simple tops into complex constructions, with leather treated to an oily finish in Tuscany creating tension against the body.

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Owens introduced cropped blazers in GOTS-certified organic cotton organdy and silk gazar with transparent organza linings. The see-through construction revealed the internal architecture of the garments: the placement of shoulder pads, the routing of seams, the structure of pockets. Extended shoulders caught with narrow sleeves created his signature linebacker proportions, but executed in weightless mille-feuille layers of silk that floated rather than imposed.

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The show's climax featured billowing pieces in habotai silk, a material typically reserved for linings. Tunics, robes, and parkas moved constantly around the body, crafted from silk woven in Como and weighing almost nothing. Models wore radical boots resembling pneumatic walking braces, while translucent veils covered many faces without truly concealing them. The staging included colored smoke in pink and yellow, creating an otherworldly atmosphere against the brutalist courtyard.

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Lido marked a shift in Owens' approach. While maintaining his dark aesthetic vocabulary, the collection incorporated subtle color: beige, pale pink, desert orange alongside the dominant black. The transparency and lightness of materials suggested vulnerability beneath the armor of his typical silhouettes. This was Owens processing global uncertainty through fashion, proposing elegance as resistance.