Ann Demeulemeester S/S26

Stefano Gallici mixes Victorian tailoring with basketball jerseys in Paris

Date

October 15, 2025

Stefano Gallici showed his fourth Ann Demeulemeester collection on October 4 in Paris, combining references from Jane Austen, 1970s rock memoirs, and basketball. The show featured Jamie Campbell Bower on the runway and Jenna Ortega in the front row, signaling the brand's push toward younger audiences.

The collection opened with elongated tailoring that reinterpreted Victorian proportions through pink brocades and fluid fabrics. These pieces mixed with leather biker jackets treated for a worn appearance. Cotton canvas bralettes appeared over white shirts, while gauzy dresses and waistcoats created layers. An ivory leather jacket, laser-cut to match an antique handkerchief pattern, bridged formal and casual elements.

Basketball entered through silk mesh jerseys and matching shorts in the brand's signature proportions. These sports pieces appeared alongside lightweight pinstripe suiting and raw denim tucked into heavy boots. Regimental jackets were reworked with modern fits, worn with leather pants. The collection closed with an all-black segment returning to the house's established dark aesthetic.

Materials ranged from traditional suiting fabrics to technical mesh, with leather appearing in both structured coats and soft shirts. Construction details included laser-cutting techniques on leather, corsetry reinterpreted as separates, and tailoring that emphasized length over traditional proportions. The mixing of formal Victorian references with American sportswear marked Gallici's most distinct departure from pure Belgian minimalism to date.

Designer/Studio

Ann Demeulemeester

Belgian fashion designer creating poetic furniture collections that explore contrasts between strength and fragility, light and shadow.

Designer/Studio

Stefano Gallici

Creative director and designer known for sophisticated aesthetic vision in fashion and interior design.

Photo Credits

Valerio Mezzanotti