Stefano Gallici presented his third Ann Demeulemeester collection in Paris on March 8, drawing from a recent trip to Los Angeles. The 36-look show mixed Western references with the house's established dark romanticism, set to The Cult's "C.O.T.A." in a pitch-black venue lined with wooden benches.

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Thick shearling and leather biker jackets anchored the collection, treated with a rust-like patina that made them look worn and weathered. These layered over ruffled shirts, lace-trimmed satin separates, and dresses printed with Gallici's handwriting. The designer introduced cowboy boots, fringed bags, and his first accessory collaboration: oversized Ray-Ban aviators available in three colors with beaded chains.

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Tailoring ranged from shrunken four-button jackets with fitted proportions to collarless coats with exaggerated shoulders. The pinstripe suiting had a retro American feel, while stark black pieces closing the show referenced Georgia O'Keeffe's austere wardrobe. Leather pants featured criss-cross detailing with laces that dragged along the runway. Knitwear included a poncho that doubled as outerwear and distressed white dresses with gauzy textures.

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The collection marked Gallici's growing confidence in leading the brand. Since his appointment in 2023, the 29-year-old Italian designer has maintained weekly contact with Ann Verhelst (Demeulemeester) herself, who serves as an unofficial advisor. His approach combines punk and indie music influences with respect for the house archives, treating them as what he calls "a forest to step into." This season's Western elements and DIY aesthetic represent his most distinct departure yet from pure Belgian minimalism.